Milan Fashion Week concluded on Sunday morning with a show by Giorgio Armani, a designer whose absence has left a void in the fashion industry. For over 40 years, Silvana Armani, the creative director, has worked alongside her uncle, and her first ready-to-wear show as the womenswear creative director offered a sense of continuity. However, the collection was a departure from the extravagance and opulence that Giorgio Armani was known for, instead embracing a more pragmatic and fuss-free approach. The collection showcased a matte finish, a departure from the artificial sheen that Armani had been pushing for some time. The opening look set the tone with a slouchy mannish suit in grey flannel, worn over a grey silk shirt and a grey jumper. The collection offered an ode to normality, with precious fabrics, somber hues, and flowing volumes, all while maintaining a sense of practicality. The exotic hints, a trademark of Armani, were toned down, with subtle kimono shapes for day and tunics over pants for night. While the collection was a step towards a more realistic and pragmatic approach, it lacked the illusion and extravagance that Armani is known for. Elsewhere, Fila Milano, a special collection designed by creative director Alistair Carr, made a convincing debut with its graphic tautness and clean metropolitan spirit. Carr's impressive resume, which includes stints at Marni and Balenciaga, was evident in his angular sense of cut and taste for subtle embellishment. However, the collection's sportswear-inspired approach drew comparisons to Miu Miu, which could be seen as a faux pas.
