In the Fall of 2026, Belgian designer Julie Kegels presented a thought-provoking collection that challenged our perception of image control in the age of social media. Her runway show, titled "Face Value," was a captivating exploration of authenticity and the shadows it casts.
The models' slow, deliberate walk, accompanied by discordant violin plucks, drew attention to the intricate construction of the garments. In an era obsessed with creating viral moments, Kegels' collection offered a refreshing take on fashion, focusing on the garments themselves rather than theatrics.
Inspired by Andy Warhol's concept of "aura" and the vibrant long-exposure portraits of Korean artist Kyungwoo Chun, Kegels' collection delved into the contrast between appearance and reality. It was an intellectual approach to a collection that was surprisingly wearable and accessible.
Capes gracefully flowed from the shoulders, attaching discreetly at the ankles, creating a haunting, ethereal silhouette. Jackets slipped off the shoulders but were reimagined as dresses, while pajama tops were transformed into elegant gowns. A simple white button-down became a dramatic cape, and a skirt appeared to unravel, only to reveal a stunning side drape.
To achieve these unique shapes, Kegels photographed her garments in her Antwerp atelier, using lighting to create shadows. She then manipulated these distorted patterns to craft innovative forms. Elsewhere, she employed what she termed "forced tailoring," manipulating the body's posture to exude assertiveness. Sleeves were cut to push the arms forward with military precision, and shrunken pullovers were sliced open at the shoulders, revealing colorful fabric wings.
"The aura is a shield," Kegels explained backstage. "Our appearance may not always reflect our true selves. The Julie Kegels woman strives for control, yet acknowledges the inherent imperfections."
Exposed seams and unfinished edges further emphasized the theme of contrast. Initially intended to be jarring, the little hats reminiscent of Calimero, the cartoon bird, added a touch of irony and inspired Kegels to incorporate more childlike elements, such as cozy baby blankets turned into wrap skirts.
As Warhol once said, our "aura" may fade with a single word, but in Kegels' skilled hands, the right outfit can preserve that image, if only for a moment. This collection invites us to contemplate the intricate dance between appearance and authenticity in the modern world.
